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History of skincare, part 19: The Great Depression, 1930-1939

The crash

Everything suddenly changed in 1929 when the stock market crashed. Many of the rich became poor overnight and many of the poor became destitute. While the blows were felt throughout the Western world, the United States bore the brunt of the Depression. Tent and shack towns sprang up in urban centers, bread lines spread across blocks, and many people were forced to leave their homes in search of work. Even those with secure employment were forced to tighten their belts. Money was tight and times uncertain, which made people very careful with what they had. Public extravagance quickly fell out of fashion, even among the wealthy. The displays of wealth were seen as eye-catching in light of the massive poverty that had hit the nation. However, skin care continued to be at the top of many people’s minds. In fact, in 1930, the cosmetic industry was the fourth largest industry in the country.

While many women had to adjust their beauty routines, they still struggled to achieve the looks that their favorite movie stars made popular. Glamor was still in style, although it was much quieter than it was in the 1920s. Heavy “glow” cream makeup was popular, as were eyeliner, lipstick, and blush. However, although the eye makeup was still applied thickly, the overdone “vampire” eyes of the previous decade were toned down. Instead of dramatic lips stung by bees, movie stars and ordinary women preferred a simple mouth wash of color. In fact, lipstick now came in a multitude of softer pinks, as well as the vibrant reds that had been so loved in the twenties. While Max Factor was still a favorite with Hollywood stars, women now had several manufacturers to choose from, such as Lancôme, Elizabeth Arden, and Revlon.

Manufacture of skin care products during depression

To drive failed sales, manufacturers released a constant stream of updates for their beauty products. The blush was available in both cream and powder. Lipstick came in an ever-widening range of colors. Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to launch a luminous lipstick at the beginning of the decade. She named her light pink signature “Schiap” in his honor. By the end of the decade, women could purchase their lipstick and nail polish in matching shades. Inexpensive soaps and cold creams also continued to be the best sellers, with Palmolive and Ivory leading the foam package.

Despite the low cost of basic soaps and cleansers, many women chose to save money by making their own skincare treatments and anti-aging products. Fashion magazines often printed recipes for cold creams and tonics that could be made with homemade ingredients. A basic cold cream, for example, can contain ingredients like beeswax, mineral oil, water, and borax. Recipes for skin tonics varied greatly and could contain anything from milk and lemon juice to sugar and witch hazel. Toners were meant to open pores and bring skin to life. Most featured astringent or acidic ingredients, as well as an essential oil that served as a scent or perfume.

The daily skin care regimen

Although multi-step skincare wouldn’t be marketed or sold until the 1960s, most women followed a beauty routine every day that called for several different products. Whether rich or poor, most women used cold cream to cleanse their face. Although soap was widely used, it was considered too harsh on the delicate skin of the face and was generally reserved to cleanse the rest of the body. The cold cream was made with an oil base and could clean dirt and grime without drying out the skin. Women would apply a thin layer of the cream and then wipe it off with a soft cloth.

After cleansing, various stimulants, toners, and skin creams can be applied. Skin creams were often used as anti-aging masks and were generally high in fat or oil. It was thought that once the skin absorbed the oil, it would fill in wrinkles, resulting in a smooth, youthful complexion. Only once their skin was completely clean, lively, hydrated and treated, did women apply the thick cream that would form the base of their makeup.

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