Crested gecko health: keeping your crested gecko fit and healthy

Crested geckos are some of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, as long as some very simple rules are followed.

• Crested geckos require a balanced diet rich in nutrients and calcium, so that they can grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
• They also require a temperature gradient so that they can thermoregulate and better digest the nutrients in their food.
• They also require a lot of room to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers, they also require a lot of climbing branches / perches.

The most common health problems that occur in captive ridges are generally the result of one of the above not being offered or not being offered to the correct standard.

Below you will find information on the most common problems and ways to make sure they are prevented.

MBD: Metabolic bone disease in crested geckos:

Metabolic bone disease in geckos is most often due to a lack of the correct nutrients that are provided in their diets.

Metabolic bone disease is a calcium deficiency, causing the gecko to use its own body and skeleton calcium stores to supplement this lack of calcium.

By using the calcium stores in its own body, the gecko’s skeleton becomes ‘deformed’ and deformed due to the bones becoming very weak and flexible.

This often results in permanent disfigurement of the gecko, especially in the form of bumps, twists and falls in the spine and a rotation of the hips, causing the tail to drop or stick out at an unusual angle.

Metabolic bone disease can also cause a weakening of the jaw, making it much more difficult for the gecko to eat.

The jaw is usually too weak for the gecko to close on its own, and the jaw remains permanently open.

Due to the weakening of the bones, MBD can also, in worst cases, result in numerous broken bones.

A gecko with MBD has more difficulty climbing and often loses “grip” on its legs and tail. If a gecko with MBD falls from a height, the result is usually broken bones.

Metabolic bone disease in its later stages is a horrible sight to witness, and the gecko is twisted and contorted until unrecognized.

In the reproductive females of younger and crested geckos, it is very important to supplement the diet properly. Young provide a lot of calcium for bone growth and breeding females use an extraordinary amount of calcium when producing eggs.

Providing a healthy, nutrient-rich, and balanced gecko diet is the most foolproof way to help prevent your crested gecko from developing MBD.

Prevention of gecko metabolic bone disease in crested geckos:

• Intestinal loading of live food before feeding, which makes it more nutritious.
• Sprinkle live foods with powdered nutrients, calcium and / or calcium D3
• Provide a good powdered meal replacement for gecko diet
• UVB light can also help prevent MBD, as it helps the gecko absorb and use the calcium in its diet more efficiently.
• Too much phosphorus in the diet can prevent calcium absorption. Avoid foods high in phosphorus.

Floppy tail syndrome: FTS on crested lizards

Floppy tail syndrome in geckos is when the gecko’s tail literally falls in an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable when the gecko is lying on its stomach, flat against the side of its enclosure, at which point the tail usually falls on its head or at a cheery angle.

A healthy gecko tail would rest against the glass in its natural position.

Flabby tail syndrome is believed to be the result primarily of a captive environment, as ridges in nature are rarely found on a surface as flat, smooth, and vertical as an enclosure wall.

This flat surface is believed to be what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as lying on this vertical surface for extended periods of time causes the tail to “ drop ” due to gravity and weaken the muscles in the base of the tail.

At worst, it is believed that floppy tail syndrome can twist the gecko’s pelvis, mainly due to the excessive weight that is placed on the pelvic area when the tail falls to the side.

Because of this, it is not recommended to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could have trouble trying to pass the eggs.

Although there is no concrete evidence available, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for your gecko could help prevent it from sleeping on the enclosure walls.

However, it is not yet fully understood if this is the actual underlying cause of FTS. Many believe it could be a genetic deformity and as such could be passed down from parent to child, although at the moment this seems unlikely.

Heat stress in crested geckos

Heat stress in crested geckos is the number one killer of these, generally very hardy and easy to care for for reptiles.

Crested geckos will begin to show stress if they are kept at temperatures above 28 ° C for prolonged periods.

It’s much easier to keep your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures closer to around 25 ° C than to risk overexposure to higher temperatures.

With that said, you can allow parts of your enclosure to reach 28 ° C, for example directly under the heating bulb, as long as your gecko pet can choose to move to a cooler area if they wish.

Higher temperatures only become a deadly problem when your gecko is forced to endure them constantly or for long periods of time without the option to cool down.

Research has shown that the crested gecko exposed to temperatures of 30 ° C without being able to cool down, can die and is very likely to die within an hour.

Young / small geckos are even more prone to heat stress, so it’s best to always allow them the option of moving to the colder end of their temperature range.

Cleaning your crested gecko nursery:

Keeping your gecko’s enclosure clean will help prevent illnesses related to poor hygiene, bacteria, and mold.

The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough cleaning when it gets dirty.

I find it easier to clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and droppings and wiping the sides of the enclosure with a damp paper towel.

There are numerous reptile safe disinfectants available now and these can be diluted with water to ensure a safe environment for your gecko after cleaning and you can use newspaper to clean stains and scratches on glass enclosures.

It is recommended to do a complete and thorough cleaning of the cabinet and all its contents from time to time. I tend to do a big cleaning every month to help stop unwanted bacteria from building up.

With regular cleaning and maintenance, your crested gecko enclosure shouldn’t create an unwanted odor or create mold / bacteria.

Choosing a healthy crested gecko:

A healthy gecko:

• Your nose and eyes will be clean and clear. The eyes will be bright and shiny and will not sink into the head.

• You will not have layers of retained shedding skin stuck to your extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a few hours and the molt shouldn’t stay much longer than this.

• Will not become dehydrated: dehydrated geckos will have flabby skin, sunken eyes, and will be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often makes the gecko look lean compared to a well-hydrated gecko.

• You will be alert when handled, an unhealthy animal will be limp and possibly shaky in your hand and will show little or no interest or reaction to being handled.

• Must have a plump, straight tail that can ‘grab’ objects. A good test of this is if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.

• They should have almost velcro feet. If the gecko is not sticking / climbing, this may be a sign of MBD or retained shed.