Water wells are a great addition to your property in both decoration and utility savings, but there are a few things you need to know before you “start digging.” Although the most common method people have used for millennia to dig wells is to just… dig them, that’s easier said than done. Most of the time it has been a community effort in which all the able-bodied men in town got together to dig.
In other words, it’s not exactly a one man job if you know what I mean. Digging your well manually is probably the safest and cheapest way, but the time and effort required to do so can make these benefits seem almost ridiculous. Other alternatives use drills, hammers and various machines. But let’s say you’re in for some long-term fun and you want to give it a try. Its fine if you say so. In any case, now is not the time to be short on friends. Call all your friends and put a shovel in their hands!
But before you start getting your hands dirty, you’ll need to get to know the more technical side of digging a hole. The general concept is to dig down to the nearest groundwater or aquifer. But how do we know where and IF there is groundwater? Good question. Theoretically, there is groundwater of some kind almost everywhere in the world: the problem is how deep it is! In your case, you better pray to God it doesn’t go too deep.
There are 2 broad classifications of wells:
1. Shallow or unconfined. Most likely, this will be the first aquifer you find when digging. Although these water reserves can be reached and extracted without too much difficulty, there are several potential drawbacks. Due to its shallow depth and “unconfined” nature, there is an increased risk of contamination and/or salinity. Also, since it is the point of greatest saturation, it is a considerably more unstable water source and can dry out during certain times of the year, depending on location.
2. Deep or confined. These aquifers are what you would ideally look for, though digging with a pick and shovel is pretty unrealistic. They are located between 2 impermeable layers that must be penetrated before they can be accessed. Due to its depth and “confined” nature, there is considerably less risk of contamination, although it will still be “hard water” and may need to be softened before drinking.
Deciding whether to dig a confined or unconfined well is great and all, but knowing other details such as the depth of the water table at your given location, recharge area and rate, as well as local seasonal patterns before you dig can save you a lot of time and effort, as not every backyard is an ideal location for a watering hole. This is done through geophysical imaging, and you may need to call in the cavalry for this one.
Fast forward to the next step. So you’ve determined that your land is suitable for a watering hole, and you’re eager to get started. You should select a site for your well that is conveniently located and accessible from locations of your choosing, such as your kitchen or garden. Having a storm drain of some kind nearby would be ideal for removing debris. Once you’ve chosen a good spot for your pit, you can start digging.
This step is relatively straightforward and consists of just digging, digging, and more digging. The diameter can vary, but should comfortably fit at least one excavator. The obvious safety issue is the sides collapsing on workers as they dig. This is a very real danger and serious steps must be taken to ensure safety. Traditionally, various forms of bracing were used, such as wooden planks nailed against the walls with wooden rods spanning the diameter.
Modern techniques incorporate reinforced concrete “rings” made slightly smaller than the diameter of the well. These rings will sink with gravity as the hole gets deeper and additional rings are added until the aquifer is reached. You will need men both to dig and to remove the excavated material. Taking turns in the pit is recommended as this will help maintain optimum digging speed. Once the pit is dug, you can fill it in with a wall style of your choice.
And there you have it. Building a roof over it is a good idea to prevent polluted rainwater from getting in, and it should also have a good airtight lid to store it away when not in use! You don’t want anything to fall into your well that shouldn’t be there. Having this cover installed over the opening that can be opened during dewatering will prevent a curious child from accidentally falling out.
And if you dig deep enough, which with pick and shovel is very doubtful, to get to a confined aquifer, you have to take into account its hydraulic head. An “artesian well” is a well whose “hydraulic head” is higher than the level of the upper part of the aquifer. In simple terms, it is the potential pressure of the water. This means that the pressure of the water will cause the water to sprout naturally creating a “fountain” of spells. Hmm, nice for tourism but possibly impractical for a home.
