OKRA
Okra is primarily a warm-weather tropical vegetable that can be grown in both northern and southern gardens. A tall-growing annual, often called a gumbo, grows best in southern states, where two crops can be produced in a single year.
Culture
The spring okra crop can be planted as soon as all danger of frost has passed. In most temperate regions, plant the fall crop from June 1 to July 1. The fruits can be harvested between 55 and 65 days after sowing, depending on the variety. Always plant seeds when the ground has warmed, as okra is a warm weather plant and will not tolerate cold weather and soil.
okra moon phase plantation
Okra should be planted when the moon is in the second or third quarter (ie waxing/waning) and in one of the following zodiac signs: Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra.
planting
Okra thrives in any good, well-drained garden soil in full sunlight. If the soil is wet, the seed tends to rot, so good drainage is necessary. Okra is difficult to transplant, but in places far north, the seed can be planted in cold frames or seedbeds and transplanted into the garden with caution.
Although okra adapts well to any type of soil, thorough soil preparation is very important. These woody plants can absorb all the food that is given to them. Because okra grows quickly, nitrogen is particularly necessary. Poultry manure is a splendid material for okra beds. Because it is very strong, only a tenth of chicken manure can be used than manure from other animals.
Compost, leaf mold, peat moss, and wood ash can all be used to improve poor soil in the garden. Peat and leaf mold are often acidic and a small amount of lime should be used in conjunction with either of these two materials. These soil builders should be plowed in the winter well before planting time, or in a small home garden they can be plowed in early spring.
Rows should be spaced at least three to five feet apart. Stems are bushy and can become quite large when well fertilized and during rainy seasons. Scatter seed in planters or loose plant on hills and mulch to a depth of one to two inches, depending on soil compactness. The seed should be spaced three or four inches apart to allow room for the stems to develop.
If the weather is warm, germination should take place within a few days. But if it rains heavily in the meantime, the soil should be lightly tilled between the rows and the bark broken over the seed by means of a garden rake. This is suggested where the soil contains clay or is heavy. Sandy loam probably won’t need any such treatment, since the seed will come out when the soil has been drained or the water has evaporated in the sun. After the plants are established, space them 15 inches apart and cover lightly with mulch.
insects
The okra plant is not subject to attack by many insects, but fall armyworm can be a problem. It pierces the pods and thus damages them. The stink bug also attacks the pods, piercing them and extracting the juices. Since the damage from the latter occurs at the end of the season, the loss is very small. Blister beetles and leaf beetles often feed on okra foliage, but these pests do little damage to the pod and hardly influence pod production. Handpicking generally keeps these insects under control.
Harvest
For continuous production, pods should be picked daily when they are between one and four inches long, depending on the variety. They should still be soft and the seed should only be half grown if the pods are to be eaten. If it is necessary to keep the pods for more than 24 hours, they should be spread out in a cool and slightly humid place. They should be given ventilation because they get hot when kept in closed drawers or boxes.
varieties
The Dwarf Green Long Pod matures in 50 days, as does the Perkins Mammoth, sometimes called the Green Long Pod. White Velvet takes 60 days to mature, but this is the standard okra for many southern markets. Clemson spineless okra matures in about 60 days and has long, spineless pods that are uniformly dark green in color. Emerald is another variety that is often planted.
