In the famous misquote, F. Scott Fitzgerald says, “The rich are different from you and me.” Ernest Hemingway responds: “Yes. They have more money.”
The laid-back island of Palm Beach mocks Worth Avenue in Miami’s flamboyant South Beach. The winter elite never carry cash and party on yachts the size of the RMS Queen Mary 2. Bestselling author James Patterson lives here thanks to the large number of fans who buy his books. Donald Trump’s Mar-A-Lago Club is a sanctuary for spoiled billionaires. We can pass all this material wealth on US Highway 95 and we will never know it is there. So why should we care? In the arts and environment, the rich are not different from you and me.
At a writers conference at the Brazilian Court Hotel on Australian Avenue, I stepped out of a time machine into the world of Scott and Zelda. Though now remodeled, the ghost of Gatsby persists. South Florida’s Moorish-Mediterranean revival design owes its genesis to the creative artistry of early 20th century architect Addison Mizner. However, the spirit of Palm Beach does not lie in its wealth, personalities or structural design, but in its conscience. In her State of the City address, Palm Beach Mayor Gail Coniglio emphasized “protecting Palm Beach for future generations.”
The arts
Henry Flagler brought the Over-Sea Railroad to Key West and the world to Florida. Although Palm Beach is brimming with vibrancy, no one is in a rush. No horns at full volume. Relax and breathe. In the tradition of Versailles and other European palaces, Flagler’s Beaux-Arts mansion with antiques and art collection is open to the public at the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, Whitehall Way.
The Society of the Four Arts is at 2 Four Arts Plaza. Palm Beach enjoys titles such as society and royalty, but the only real thing is the imposing Roystonea regal (trees). Four Arts, a non-profit cultural organization, organizes concerts, films, educational programs and art exhibitions where you can see Toulouse-Lautrec this December. Summer visitors don’t come to be seen, but to see. Overflowing with bougainvilleas, the pace is slow, the light is vibrant, the ecosystem vigorous.
On a sleepy summer day in the Four Arts library, I take the elevator to the second floor. Exhibits vary. On this day, the Children’s Library presents a rare photographic glimpse of the Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan. Photographers Tom Sterling, Kathleen Sweeney and Dr. L. Samuel Wann transport viewers to one of the most remote places on earth, the Cloud Kingdom of the Drukpa people. Wandering among the lost horizons of the lamas and waving prayer flags, it suddenly feels like winter. Women in leather weave multicolored woolen blankets, children’s faces are red as apples. Languid brown-eyed yaks peer through the fences of medieval hill towns where maroon-robed monks till the primordial land.
The environment
From the icy peaks of Shangri-La, a short walk leads into the sunlit world of the Four Arts Botanical Gardens. Among fountains, exotic birds, prickly bromeliads and tropical plants, a mosaic bench invites you to pause in the shade. Brick walkways wind through gardens of Chinese, British and Spanish influence. A baroque wrought iron gate opens onto a garden where a live blonde supermodel poses for photojournalists. Cool and serene, a sculpture of Kuan yin, the Chinese goddess of mercy silently watches the photoshoot as the living goddess withers in the Florida sun.
Kids like Pan’s Garden on nearby Hibiscus Avenue. A large bronze of Pan playing his flute protects the entrance to the preservation of more than 300 native species. Pan’s “Plants and Native Americans” program for students focuses on ethnobotany, the relationship between Florida’s Native American tribes and the indigenous plants that supported their culture.
Palm Beach owes its quality of life to the passion and enormous capital of residents dedicated to preserving its environment and cultural integrity. Without the fuss of the rich and famous, a stroll through town unearths fragrant herb gardens in backyards, art galleries hidden within courtyards, and the dazzling world of flowers. Orchid hobbyists have tons of resources, like Mary’s Orchids on Sunrise Avenue and the Orchid Society of the Palm Beaches.
Swimming time – Maritime – Lunch
South Ocean Boulevard has no stores or restaurants to obscure the view. A strip of sand dunes with environmentally fragile mounds overlook unspoiled beaches: a dip in the waves rejuvenates the body and nourishes the soul. The Palm Beach Water Taxi offers a laid-back history of the island with daily 90-minute trips on the Intracoastal Waterway. For great smoothies and an old nostalgic pharmacy for affordable food, Green’s Pharmacy and Luncheonette at 151 N County Road. The thrifty traveler can enjoy the best of Palm Beach with a breeze and a GPS.
